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(Doll) Antique or Reproduction: Knowing the Difference  
from THE DOLLMAKER NEWSLETTER ARCHIVES

The American Heritage Dictionary defines the word reproduce as "to produce a counterpart, image, or copy of". Extending that definition, a reproduction of a porcelain doll is "one which was molded in clay and fired" and "one which came from an original mold."

It is quite natural to want to reproduce something fine and beautiful, that perhaps we can't afford to buy in the original. When an original doll is cast and fired, it retains the markings, usually on the back of the head, of the artist or manufacturer. There is nothing wrong with making reproductions as long as the artist casting the mold adds his/her initials and the date to the original markings already on the head. Doll artists who are selling their dolls are obliged to present them as reproductions. Those who don't are committing fraud and give legitimate reproduction artists a bad name.

In my experience, collectors have had no interest in reproductions. That should not be a deterrent to making them! I find them a joy to make because one learns so much. For example, costuming these dolls would cost a fortune if one had to buy the original in order to do it. I have explained to customers that a reproduction should be accepted as a work of art in itself. One of my teachers made the point that sometimes doll artists today do a better job of painting than that of the mass produced dolls of a century ago!

Copyright laws prohibit reproducing dolls for sale that are currently in production. In fact, it is illegal even if the doll is not patented. The Fair Trade Practices law protects the original artist. "A United States patent runs for only seventeen years, and after that time it becomes public property. It is, therefore, legal to reproduce any patented item after the patent has expired."

That said, we can get to the good stuff: how to know if your doll is an original. There are several ways in which unscrupulous salespeople can misrepresent their dolls. A doll with an original head may have the wrong body parts. A doll may have been restored. Some collectors will have nothing to do with a restored doll whereas others want their doll to look new. My rule of thumb when restoring a doll was to do as little as possible in order to preserve the doll's value. For example, stringing a doll will not affect its value, and should be done. Body repaints or replacing the body will affect the value and should not be done if the doll will survive without it

There is no foolproof way to identify an authentic antique doll since reproduction artists have improved so much in recent years, and if we as buyers are not thoroughly informed. If you are in doubt, research, research, then take it to an appraiser.

Here is a checklist for authenticity when buying an antique doll:
  1. Old porcelain is darker than new porcelain
  2. Have the dealer shine a flashlight into the interior of the porcelain head to check for repaired cracks
  3. Is the wig shiny and coarse to the touch? If so, it probably is synthetic and not the original mohair
  4. Do the clothes look new or inappropriate? Appropriate replacement clothing will not devalue a doll by too much.
  5. Do look under the doll's skirt for body damage or replacement parts. I almost bid on a beautiful Armand Marseille until I noticed that the body was completely deteriorated. And if there are rubber legs on a porcelain doll, you know it's a fake!

If you fall in love with a doll with defects regardless of her authenticity, do buy her! She will have a good home with you. Be a perfectionist only if you wish to resell the doll.

Read everything you can find on antique dolls. As mentioned above, find a good appraiser. Your insurance company, an antiques dealer, an auctioneer, and people who do appraisals at doll shows, all have extensive experience with antiques and with dolls and can give you a qualified opinion of authenticity and value. These people also have a good knowledge of current market values.

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